June 8, 2012 § Leave a comment
Thanks to some of the best surfers on the planet for throwing themselves over the ledge in some of the largest cloudbreak ever ridden yesterday. My adrenaline was flowing just watching my screen as I witnessed what Kelly Slater called “a day to be remembered in the history of surfing.”. Looking forward to the volcom Fiji Pro to run live 4:30 pm EST. (Restaurants or cloudbreak is the question?)
Kelly Slater’s comments on the Camaraderie of big wave surfers pushing their limits: “That’s really happening, like right now you’re watching something that’s never been done. Last year it touched on it but the boundaries have been pushed, blown out of the water now. Literally you are watching every time waves break waves that have never been ridden over millions of years at this intensity especially under paddling power.”
All photos taken from surfline
June 7, 2012 § Leave a comment
Bodhi would go! Secret Spot Sydney (Opera House). Hoping to be the 1st one to surf the Statue of Liberty this fall…
June 6, 2012 § Leave a comment
May 25, 2012 § Leave a comment
It’s only May!!! It seems summer is in full bore with one exception… we have waves! I believe this is the first time in 104 years since we’ve had tropical storms in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans simultaneously… Pre-hurricane season!
Taking full advantage of early season swell, this weekend was the SMASH NYC Fish Fry 2012. I had all intention of attending but… My 1st try at shaping was finally ready to test, and still a virgin! This weekend was mini simmons time. At 6’2″ I was amazed at how well a 5’4″ mini both paddled and maneuvered! I’m sold! If you haven’t tried one (this is my 1st) the beauty of a mini is that it paddles like a log and turns like a fish. Brilliant! For my first attempt at shaping I’m in love. No weird fin hums, and my shotty glassing job (my attitude was that there’s nothing a good hot coat and sanding won’t fix!) seemed to hold. I already know where i’ll tweak dimensions to pull our and disperse volume for round two. Special thanks to Tyler Warren for his amazing youtube videos! Can’t wait to see the flick.
Q: What’s better than the first time you wax a new board?
A: The first time you wax a new board that you shaped yourself…
Thank you Alberto…
5am May 23rd Rockaway Beach
May 17, 2012 § Leave a comment
This Time Last year… If you haven’t been to the Mentawais I highly suggest selling whatever prize possession or body part you can live without, book your ticket and never look back. Everything you’ve seen in the magazines, videos and websites is all that and then some. After 30+ hours travel time from the US, the first time you see Lances Right or Macaronis or Kanduis in their full glory will truly blow your mind. Eleven days perfect waves is never enough. Book your trip… and hire the photog!!!
Rifles- Day 1
Rags Left- Rezzy
Forecasts showed NO SWELL!
April 30, 2012 § Leave a comment
NYC condensed quiver 2012. 5’4″ mini simmons (my 1st home made board), 5’10” Dan Taylor “Roach”, 6’10” DT semi-gun, 6’2″ DT “BS”, and 6’3″ MAD. The roach is one of my favorite boards I’ve ever surfed so I pretty much live on that. The 6’3″ and 6’10” are more travel boards as everything else is glass-on. With surfboard airline fees so ridiculous, I’ve found it better to just stash boards with friends around the world. (Just need taller friends).